HIDDEN VENICE

Seen from the air, Venice may seem compact enough to be explored high and low in a weekend. Besides, thanks to Canaletto’s clarity and the occasional signs to San Marco and Accademia, we think we can home in on all the treasures with a guide-book and a map. So how do you account for the feeling that the ‘real’ Venice is the one you see when you’re lost? Exactly. But how can you find it on purpose? With a tip-off or two, it’s easy to find because in this labyrinthine city the unknown is often one small bridge away from the famous. Hidden Venice takes the wraps off five of these quite well kept secrets, each of them easily missed and all of them guardians of art.

WHICH CHURCH WAS IT?

In a Venice walker’s limbo beyond the northern end of the Zattere is a church you may either never have discovered or struggle to find a second time. Miss Garnet’s Angel, a novel by Salley Vickers, published in 2000, features both the church and its unforgettably commanding set of 18th century paintings, by Gianantonio Guardi or his brother Francesco about the story of Tobias and Raffaele. That story comes very much to life as you pass from one painting to the next at the Chiesa dell’Angelo Raffaele.

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